Almost 30 years since I made my first to Tinseltown, Hollywood still has a pull over me. There’s a line in an Eagles song that goes something like, “You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave.” Although I’ve come and gone countless times over the past three decades, flying in and out of LAX, I don’t think I’ve ever really left.
Officially, my trip to LA last week was a research venture for my new book, Hairpins and Dead-Ends: The Perilous Journeys of 20 Actresses Through Early Hollywood, which is a companion volume to Dangerous Curves atop Hollywood Heels. I spent four full days at the Academy’s Margaret Herrick Library, going through their vast collection and researching the lives and careers of the actresses I want to include in the new book: Evelyn Nelson, Belle Bennett, Corliss Palmer, Mary Miles Minter, Alma Rubens, Mary MacLaren, Florence Deshon, Margaret Gibson, Edwina Booth, Lottie Pickford, Valeska Suratt, Lilyan Tashman, Jetta Goudal, Katherine MacDonald, Marie Walcamp, and several others.
Before checking in at the library every morning, I drove around the neighborhood of Hollywood in search of the homes where these luminaries of the silver screen live, loved, and died (sometimes). I located the house where poor Alma Rubens died in 1931 after a hard fought battle with drugs.
Unfortunately, the house on DeLongpre Avenue where Evelyn Nelson committed suicide in 1923 is no longer there. It was razed to make room for a medical facility. Almost directly across the street, however, the house where Florence Deshon lived during her time in Hollywood was still standing.
If I had any time to spare in the morning before barricading myself in the library, I would wander among the graves and tombs at Hollywood Memorial Cemetery. (Yeah, I know the name has been officially been changed to Hollywood Forever, but it will forever remain Hollywood Memorial Cemetery.) That cemetery is absolutely one of my favorite spots on God’s green earth. You don’t have to worry about a parking place or traffic and no one is going to honk at you to get out of their way — unless it’s the geese.
A flock of geese live in and around the pond at Hollywood Memorial Cemetery.
This trip, a mother goose was sitting on her nest, which was nestled into the top of a cast iron pot on the steps leading down to Douglas Fairbanks’ tomb. Daddy goose waddled after me and hissed until I got the message and walked in another direction.
Minutes after I fled papa goose, I went to another part of the cemetery to look for Mae Murray’s brother. I stumbled upon a peacock that was discouraged me from getting a closer look. By the time I raise my camera, this bird was fluttering its feathers and edging closer and closer. I was sure this creature was the reincarnation of dear Mae Murray and she was doing her dance from Peacock Alley.
I sought refuge from the birds of the cemetery inside the mausoleum, where I paid my respects to Rudolph Valentino, William Desmond Taylor, and Barbara La Marr. There are always fresh flowers and lipstick prints around Miss La Marr’s crypt.
I had to wonder whether someone was leaving those lip prints on the marble, or was Barbara trying to give me a kiss from the great beyond?
I couldn’t leave town without paying my respects to Mae Murray at Valhalla Cemetery. One afternoon, I drove out to North Hollywood and spent some time with Eve Southern, Belle Bennett, and Miss Murray. I tried setting up the camera so I might get a shot of me and Mae’s grave marker. The shot looked more like an ant looking up at me from the grass.
This is the best I could do.
This trip was also about making connections. I spent several hours in Santa Barbara with the daughter of silent film actress Katherine MacDonald. She gave me an insightful interview about her mother and their struggles together. It will be included in Hairpins and Dead-Ends. I had lunch one afternoon in Studio City with relatives of silent film actress Evelyn Nelson. They supplied me with number of stills to use in the book.
Brandee Cox also gave me a fascinating tour of the Pickford Center. Astounding!
I reconnected with fellow writers Jim Parish, Tony Slide, and André Soares. At an Italian cafe in Santa Monica, André and I talked non-stop for three hours without ever taking a breath, much less a bite of the pizza we ordered. We had to box it up to go. Have you read André’s bio of Ramon Novarro? If not, it is a must!
Speaking of books, I spent some time at Larry Edmunds and Iliad. Alas, I didn’t bring back a suitcase full of loot this time, but I found some interesting items. I finally found a copy of Jim Kirkwood’s There Must Be a Pony, a novel based his parents, Lila Lee and James Kirkwood.
Check out his dedication…..
I also found a signed copy of a book by Carole Landis. Not exactly a signed book. A fan, Jimmy Jarnisch, apparently met her and got her autograph in the 1940s. He pasted it into a book Carole wrote, Four Jills in a Jeep, about entertaining the troops during World War II. I like Carole Landis, so I couldn’t resist.
This trip was also one of firsts. After almost 20 years of searching, I finally found the garage where Thelma Todd breathed her last. I had been to her home on the Pacific Coast Highway many times.
When I climbed into the hills behind the house, however, I could never locate the garage where Thelma died. This time, I took a street off of Sunset and worked my way around until I made the discovery. Apparently, she died in the garage on the right.
This trip was also the first time I used GPS. I had always depended on my trusty 1994 Thomas Brothers maps to get me around the city.
Don’t get wrong, I still used these maps, but I introduced Hazel into the fun. Hazel is my name for GPS. Charlie and I named it Hazel several years back when we were traveling from Heidelberg to Munich. Hazel and I have a love/hate relationship. She got us to the hotel, but she waited until it was almost too late to direct us to the turnoff.
This time, as I left the car rental agency at LAX, I typed in the address of the hotel. Rather than taking me up the 405 to 10 towards Los Angeles, Hazel decides to direct me to back streets I had never heard of.
“Oh, come on, Hazel,” I yelled out at this little box on the seat next to me. “This is your first trip here. I’ve been coming to Hollywood for almost 30 years.” She kept quiet!
8 responses to “Discovering Old Hollywood Among the New – My 2012 Tinseltown Adventure”
Wonderful Blog, Pictures, and Info. Thanks for sharing Michael.
What a wonderful trip you had! First, you quoted the Eagles, and as a former disc jockey of 20 years, music after my own heart. Then you spent time in the Margaret
Herrick library. Jealous. Then silent communion with Valentino, Murray, LaMarr. Intense. So beautiful and spiritual. Then a lunch with Parrish, Slide and Soares!
PLUS you found Thelma Todd’s garage. What a fantastic trip – it truly doesn’t get any better!! Thanks for taking us along:)
Thanks for taking me along on your trip. I love all the picks, great job.
I love the photos good for you that you found Thelma’s death garage I know I left a piece of my heart in LA. I can’t wait to go back I want to see Thelma’s beach House and Mae Murray’s grave too. I am so glad you had a good time can’t wait for the book. Alma and I have the same Birthday she is special to me. Edwina Booth as well.
What is the address of the house where Alma Rubens died?
112 N. Manhattan, I believe.
I continue to learn so much from you the more I read! 🙂